1. Introduction
This is pretty much self explanatory. Not much point in uploading a bunch of picture either. A couple diagrams showing the parts needed should be more than enough for anyone considering swapping their ABS equipped Eclipse/Talon to non-ABS. Other than the minor effect on cleaning up the engine bay and weight lose, it's all bad. It's a serious safety hazard, against the law in some areas and typically gives bad brake bias for a lowered DSM. I do not recommend nor endorse removing the ABS on a DSM. With that said, I swapped it for the fore mentioned two reasons. ha ha.
2. Part Required
| MB895892 | Brake master cylinder primary tube |
|---|---|
| MB895893 | Brake master cylinder secondary tube |
| MB895894 | Front right brake tube |
| MB895895 | Front left brake tube |
| MB895931 | Brake fluid proportioning valve |
3. ABS removal
Here's a diagram of the ABS and Non-ABS brake lines, switch back and forth and you can easily see the difference. The basic plan in doing the ABS to non ABS conversion is to swap everything in between the brake master cylinder and the brake fluid proportioning valve including the proportioning valve itself. It consist of 2 lines running from the brake master cylinder to the ABS modulator, the modulator unit and 4 lines from the modulator to the proportioning valve and front brakes.
Disconnect the 2 hard lines on the brake master cylinder and the 2 hard lines that connects to the proportioning valve's top ports. Do NOT damage the two top hard lines as they are for the rear brakes and will be reused. The lower 2 hard lines on the valve can be disconnected now or removed later on along with the valve.
Next remove the ABS hydraulic unit (modulator) and the 6 hard lines (2 from the master cylinder, 2 to the front brakes, 2 to the brake proportioning valve) on the unit. I just cut the lines for ease since I don't plan on swapping back. I won't go into details on how to remove parts as you should already have a service manual of some sort beside you.
4. ABS ECU removal
Time to go under the passenger side dash to remove the ABS computer. Fold the carpet away and you'll see a flat panel that covers the ABS computer and relay. Remove the tray cover and disconnect the ABS ECU and relay from the wiring harness. After that you can take out the whole tray. Removing the tray involves a bit more work. The tray, blower unit and the tray cover brackets (in that order) are held on by common firewall stud bolt, so you'll need to remove the blower unit from the lower stud bolt first. Unfortunately it doesn't give enough flex to slip just the bottom bracket out and requires you to remove the other nuts as well.
5. Non ABS install
Install the non-ABS parts. The non-ABS proportioning valve has 6 ports compared to 4 on the ABS valve. The primary and secondary brake lines connect to the brake master cylinder and the proportioning valve's bottom ports. The middle ports are for the front 2 brake lines and the top ports are for the rear brake lines. Don't forget to use red loctite and secure it's tight! It doesn't mean you should use brute force as they only require 11 ft.lbs of torque from the factory.